General info about removing the Main board from any of these pianos ….
PX103 PX106 PX107 PX111 PX201 PX203
Very occasionally there is also a fault on the Amplifier board (the “AS” p.c.b.)
If you have a multimeter, there are a few checks you can make safely with the piano unplugged to see if this board is likely to be ok or not.
If you are sending me the amplifier board see Amplifier board removal below.
Read all of this before you start.
Read the sections of my Technics page
“If opening piano to remove circuit boards” and
“Tips for removing circuit boards” and also
“Packing” and “Shipping method”
Please unplug the piano before opening it – I can’t do repairs for dead customers!
Make drawings or take photos and make good notes so you can refit everything correctly.
NOTE: my description assumes you are standing in front of the piano
1 – make sure the piano really is unplugged from the mains!
2 – take top off piano – all models except PX111 which is completely different to open
Four screws on back of piano in a row near the top, then knock top forwards, then lift off
Slide keyboard cover (if any) shut over the keys so you can see inside piano
3 – do drawings or photos and make notes of where connectors go
4 – unplug main board connectors - connectors are the same on all except PX111
Description assumes you are standing in front of the piano
Two connectors on left edge of board, and one connector on rear right-hand edge of board – these unplug by holding firmly and pulling the bunch of wires which come up out of top of each connector. PX111 has two more like this on right edge of board.
Four other slightly odd connectors – white with a small tab. PX111 only has two of this type.
ALL MODELS – Two which plug into the rear edge of the main board – white tab sticks towards the front of the piano. Put a finger under the tab and ping it upwards to unplug the connector.
ALL EXCEPT PX111 – There are two similar connectors which come from the right edge of the main board and are plugged into the amplifier board. You have to unplug these from the amplifier board (not from the main board). You will see that the white tabs are sticking towards the right. Unplug by putting a finger under each tab and pinging upwards.
PX111 – these two connectors (on right edge of board) are the type which have wires coming out of the top.
5 - remove two screws which go through the rear corners of the main board.
6 – the two front corners of the main board are mounted on nylon posts. Each nylon post has flared-out bits which must be squeezed together using e.g. long nose pliers whilst you try to ease the board up the post.
If using long nose pliers, take care that they don’t skid off a post and damage any circuit tracks.
Handling and “Packing” and “Shipping method” info on my Technics page
6 – for PX107 PX106 only
You can’t get at the right-hand nylon post because there is a small green board in the way. So you need to lift the small green board which is mounted on three more nylon posts. The flared-out bits of these three posts can sometimes be squeezed together with your fingernails. If using long nose pliers, take care that they don’t skid off a post and damage any circuit tracks.
It is possible to lift the small green board without unplugging its connectors but you can unplug them first if you think it will make things easier. You will recognise these connectors as the “pinging up the white tab” variety.
When the small green board is out of the way you can get at the right-hand nylon post.
Put the small green board back in place – no need to refit its connectors
NOTE – I must have both green boards for testing
Handling and “Packing” and “Shipping method” info on my Technics page.
Amplifier board removal
Also see Tips for removing circuit boards near the bottom of my Technics page.
1 – Unplug the piano from the mains!
2 – take top off piano – see above
3 – do drawings or photos and make notes of where connectors go
Description assumes you are standing in front of the piano.
4 – unplug amplifier board connectors
One connector midway along rear edge of board – comes from the transformer. You can’t just pull off this connector because it has a built-in latch on its rear face. Hold the front and rear faces of this connector near the top between thumb and finger. Squeeze firmly which should open the latch and the connector can be pulled off. If it won’t pull off, you haven’t squeezed the top of the latch enough.
One or two connectors on right edge of board. The latch is on the right face of these and they unplug in the same way as the previous connector.
NOTE – When you reconnect these, make sure they are lined up properly. It is possible to plug them in wrongly (e.g. one step sideways) so do be careful !
Three connectors on left edge of board. Unplug the middle connector by holding firmly and pulling the bunch of wires which come up out of top of it. The other two connectors are the “pinging up the white tab” variety described above.
PX111 – these three connectors are all the type which have wires coming out of the top.
5 – Remove two screws – these are found near each end of the big, silver-coloured aluminium heatsink. Each screw can be seen in a round hole near the front edge of the board.
6 – The board is mounted on five nylon posts which are a very tight fit
Each nylon post has flared-out bits which must be squeezed together using long nose pliers whilst you try to ease the board part-way up the post.
WARNING – DO NOT TRY TO GET THE BOARD COMPLETELY OFF EACH POST
The board is made of paxolin which is quite brittle and will crack if bent too much. You have to work your way round the posts, easing the board a little way up each one in turn.
If you do crack the board I can repair it but this obviously adds to the repair cost.
“Packing” and “Shipping method” info on my Technics page.
E&OE