Cost of Technics repairs and list of models

Cost of repairs
Although repairs tend to cost a similar amount for the same circuit board from a particular range of models, the price will always vary a bit depending on how much actually needs doing.
Sometimes the price can vary quite a lot if anything unexpected is found – like corrosion.
This is usually caused by a drinks spillage or by long-term exposure to aggresive atmosphere (e.g. salty, humid) or by chemical leakage from a component on a circuit board, damage in transit (usually because of inadequate packaging), damage caused by a customer being too rough or impatient when removing a board (or had an unfortunate accident when doing this) or a spectacularly awful previous repair attempt.  This means it is never possible to be able to give an absolutely definite price.  The best thing is to have a talk about it first.  If it looks like being repairable for a price you’re happy with, you can send the circuit board or bring whatever is required e.g. a KN series keyboard or the top of a piano.  Once I’ve had a look I’ll have a better idea and can let you know if I think it will cost appreciably more before getting too deeply involved.

All enquiries – please ring first – see CONTACT page.

List of most models, what might be repairable and some comments.
I can usually repair all these products unless there is wide-spread atmospheric type of corrosion over the whole surface of a board or an extremely bad breakage or masses of physical damage to printed circuit tracks and chips by previous repair attempts.
Very occasionally I get a board that really is impossible to repair because a special part is required that is no longer obtainable from anywhere.  In this situation no-one in the world can repair it without scrapping another similar piano for parts.

Below I’ve said which boards I can test.  Once we’ve spoken and I know which board I need to look at – and whether I can test it – you can send me that board or boards.
If you’re in the UK and you’d prefer to bring the top of the piano here, that’s fine.
If you’re overseas, please leave your email address (see Contact page) and we can work out which boards you need to send.

Organs and tone cabinets – sorry, no … but I do have some disk drives and also some boards from the E series, G7, C600, C700 organs which I will get round to listing on the spares page.
Can repair and test EME-213 and SY-FD20 floppy disk drive assemblies.

K series keyboards – sorry, no – too old.

KN series keyboards
1 – ring me first with model number and full details of faults
2 – in general, if I think I can do it, I need the whole keyboard here.  Do not send it unless in a proper metal flight case with extremely good padding inside.  Even with masses of bubblewrap and cardboard these keyboards are very likely to get damaged in transit so bring in person or send by taxi.
KN series main boards – KN5000, KN6000, KN6500 – can test and possibly repair these.
Best to bring the whole keyboard here because these boards are quite difficult to remove and replace.
KN7000 – need the whole keyboard here.
KN series amplifier boards – need the whole keyboard here.

SM-AC1200 – need the unit and its power supply here.

SY-ZS30 Technics silent piano retrofit for acoustic pianos.
Can fully test the main board as I’ve made a test rig to simulate the contact boards.
Send the main board assembly in its metal box.
Have not yet seen the contact boards used for this retrofit but have successfully repaired a main board (2016).

P30 and P50 stage pianos – need the piano and its power supply here.

VERY IMPORTANT    SX-PX222 SX-PX224 SX-PX226 SX-PX228 SX-PX552 SX-PX554
All these models need a cheap modification to prevent the extreme likelihood of severe (very expensive) and possibly irrepairable damage to the main board if the pedal lead gets crunched!  Just fitting a new pedal cable will not repair the damage.
Please warn anyone you know who owns one of these models!

FAIRLY IMPORTANT   Many amplifier boards need a cheap modification which makes it less likely to blow both amplifiers and possibly both speakers.  When this happens it can cost a lot to repair.  If the top of your piano or your amplifier board is here I would carry out this work anyway as it would be pretty stupid not to have it done.  Parts are becoming more and more difficult to obtain so it makes sense to prevent or delay a failure if possible – especially if it costs very little to do.  If you would like to have this work done, please get in touch.
NOTE – the cheap modification mentioned above does not include amplifier boards from models PR602 PR603 PR604 PR702 PR703 PR804 PR902 PR903 PR1000 PX336 PX338 which all need an extensive refurbishment to give them a longer lease of life.  The refurbishment has to be done properly if it is to last for any length of time.
 

ALL MODELS WITH BLACK PLASTIC BOXES PROTRUDING UNDERNEATH
To avoid damaging these boxes, place packing underneath when transporting top of piano.

ALL MODELS WITH BUZZY, DISTORTED SOUND
Also bring the speaker box if any.  I do have some speakers for sale.  
More recent models like PR602 PR603 PR604 PR702 PR703 PR804 PR902 PR903 PR1000 PX336 PX338 are unlikely to have speaker problems.  The amplifier is most likely the cause of the distorted sound or other strange noises.

 

PC8 PC10 PC15 PC25 series pianos – need the top of the piano here.
NOTE – take care not to bash the volume control located under the front left corner.

PC100 – need the top of the piano here.
 

PR series digital ensemble pianos in order of production (I think)

PR40 PR60 PR100 PR200 PR300 – depends what’s wrong but need top of piano here.
If buzzy, distorted sound please also bring the speaker box if any.

PR1 Grand piano version of PR300 so same as above.

PR50v PR150 PR250 PR350 – can test some boards but might need top of piano here – please ring with fault details.
If buzzy, distorted sound please bring the speaker box too.
PR250 PR350 should be able to repair contact problems on ones with serial numbers xxxDxxxx but not the earlier membrane contact ones with serial numbers xxxCxxxx.

PR3 – Grand piano version of PR350 (I think) so same as above.

PR170 PR270 PR370 – can test main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
If buzzy, distorted sound please bring the speaker box too.

PR5 – Grand piano version of PR370 so same as above.

PR110 – need the top of the piano here.
NOTE – this feels awful to play – must be the only Technics piano like this!
No, I was wrong – the PC100 and PX100 have the same nasty keyboard.

PR303 PR305 PR307 – can test main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
If buzzy, distorted sound please also bring the speaker box if any.

PR500 PR600 PR700 PR900 – can test main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
If buzzy, distorted sound please also bring the speaker box if any.

PR51 PR52 – can test main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.

PR602 PR702 PR902 – can test main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.

PR53 – can test main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.

PR603 PR703 PR903 – can test main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.

PR1000 – Grand piano version of PR903 so same as above.

NP10 – don’t know – have never seen one of these.

PR54 – can only test the amplifier board.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.

PR604 PR804 – can only test the amplifier board.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.

 
PX series digital pianos in order of production (I think)

PX1 PX4 PX5 PX6 PX7 PX9 – sorry, no – too old.
Have supplied speakers for PX6.

PX20 PX30 PX33v PX44, PX55, PX66 – can test most main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
If buzzy, distorted sound please also bring the speaker box if any.
PX55 PX66 should be able to repair contact problems on ones with serial numbers xxxCxxxx but not the earlier membrane contact ones with serial numbers xxxAxxxx and xxxBxxxx.

PX70 PX71 PX73 PX74 – can test main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
If buzzy, distorted sound please also bring the speaker box if any.

PX101 PX103 PX106 PX107 – can test main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
If buzzy, distorted sound please also bring the speaker box if any.

PX100 – need the top of the piano here.

PX111 – can test main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.

PX201 PX203 PX204 PX205 PX206 PX207 PX208 – can test main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.

PX222 PX224 PX226 PX228 – can test main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
All these models need a cheap modification to prevent the extreme likelihood of severe (very expensive) and possibly irrepairable damage to the main board if the pedal lead gets crunched!  Just fitting a new pedal cable will not repair the damage.
Please warn anyone you know who owns one of these models!

PX332 PX334 – can test main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
These two models might also need the same modification as PX222 PX224 PX226 PX228 above.
It is difficult to be certain about this because the drawings are poor quality and incomplete but I will check this the next time I see one of these models.

PX335 PX336 PX338 – can test main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.

PX552 PX554 – can test main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
Both these models need a cheap modification to prevent the extreme likelihood of severe (very expensive) and possibly irrepairable damage to the main board if the pedal lead gets crunched!  Just fitting a new pedal cable will not repair the damage.
The amplifier board also need a cheap modification which makes it less likely to blow both amplifiers and possibly both speakers.  This was a problem that occurred quite frequently on the PX554 and less frequently on the PX552.  When it happens it can cost a lot to repair.  If your piano suddenly makes a very loud humming noise, turn it off quickly, don’t turn it on again and contact me!  If you are lucky the amplifier and speakers may still be okay but, if you switch on the piano again, you will probably put the final nail in the coffin and say goodbye to a lot of money!
Please warn anyone you know who owns one of these models!

PX662 PX663 PX664 – can test main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.

PX665 – can test amplifier board – not tried main board so not sure.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.

 
OTHER NOTES

ALL MODELS
All models are now old enough that any memory back-up capacitors should be replaced.
This should be done even if the instrument is still working properly.
It is not an expensive job if it can be done before these capacitors start leaking and it will extend the working life of the instrument.
If you wait until it stops working or until faults start appearing it will cost considerably more and your piano or keyboard may even be irrepairable!

Pedal cables, pedal leads, pedal cords
8-way MINI DIN – this is soldered to the pedal unit so need the pedal unit here to do it.
4-way MINI DIN to Technics connector – in stock – length 2 metres.
This cable has a connector at each end so you can fit it yourself.
Most models – first, and very important, make sure the piano is securely fastened to its stand.
If the old cable runs down the left hand side, tip the piano up on to its right hand side.
Not having to grovel at floor level makes the job much easier!
Top of range models with a separate central pedal unit – the pedal cable usually runs down from the top of the piano inside a channel with a cover over it.  As a rule the whole pedal unit including the supports has to be unscrewed from the speaker box.  Once removed it should be possible to get at the bottom connector at the rear of the metal box in which the pedals themselves are mounted.

Pedal microswitches
Parts are available.  Do not try to remove the printed circuit board – it will break!
Change the microswitch without removing the board.

Damper (Sustain) Pedal potentiometers
Parts not available.  These have to be cleaned.

Master Volume slide controls
Parts not available.  These have to be cleaned.

At least 50% of my repairs are from overseas so there’s no way any of these people will be shipping me the top of their piano!  For those people, we can do a quick check of fault symptoms by email so they can send me the correct board.
It all sounds far too easy – and it is!  The biggest problem is time.  I speak to or email many people about their repair and then, often several weeks later, a random selection of parcels arrives.  Some are from people I spoke to fairly recently and some are from people I spoke to many weeks or even months ago – but they all arrived today and they all want their boards fixed right now … aarrgghh!!!

I do my best – honestly!

Nearly forgot
SX-WSA1 SX-WSA1R – never seen one so no idea if I could repair these.
Can’t get keys for WSA1

E&OE