Cost of repairs
Although repairs tend to cost a similar amount for the same circuit board from a particular range of models, the price will always vary a bit depending on how much actually needs doing.
Sometimes the price can vary quite a lot if anything unexpected is found – like corrosion.
This is usually caused by a drinks spillage or by long-term exposure to aggresive atmosphere (e.g. salty, humid) or by chemical leakage from a component on a circuit board, damage in transit (usually because of inadequate packaging), damage caused by a customer being too rough or impatient when removing a board (or had an unfortunate accident when doing this) or a spectacularly awful previous repair attempt. This means it is never possible to be able to give an absolutely definite price. The best thing is to have a talk about it first. If it looks like being repairable for a price you’re happy with, you can send the circuit board or bring whatever is required e.g. a KN series keyboard or the top of a piano. Once I’ve had a look I’ll have a better idea and can let you know if I think it will cost appreciably more before getting too deeply involved.
All enquiries – please ring first – see CONTACT page.
List of most models, what might be repairable and some comments.
I can usually repair all these products unless there is wide-spread atmospheric type of corrosion over the whole surface of a board or an extremely bad breakage or masses of physical damage to printed circuit tracks and chips by previous repair attempts.
Very occasionally I get a board that really is impossible to repair because a special part is required that is no longer obtainable from anywhere. In this situation no-one in the world can repair it without scrapping another similar piano for parts.
Below I’ve said which boards I can test. Once we’ve spoken and I know which board I need to look at – and whether I can test it – you can send me that board or boards.
If you’re in the UK and you’d prefer to bring the top of the piano here, that’s fine.
If you’re overseas, please leave your email address (see Contact page) and we can work out which boards you need to send.
Organs and tone cabinets – sorry, no … but I do have some disk drives and also some boards from the E series, G7, C600, C700 organs which I will get round to listing on the spares page.
Can repair and test EME-213 and SY-FD20 floppy disk drive assemblies.
K series keyboards – sorry, no – too old – but might do contact problems or something relatively simple – no parts available.
KN series keyboards – probably but need the whole keyboard here.
SM-AC1200 – probably but need the unit and its power supply here.
SY-ZS30 Technics silent piano retrofit for acoustic pianos.
Can fully test and probably repair the main board as I’ve made a test rig to simulate the contact boards.
Send the main board assembly in its metal box.
Have not yet seen the contact boards used for this retrofit but have successfully repaired a main board (year 2016).
P30 and P50 stage pianos – need the piano and its power supply here.
Both models – can usually repair boards and keyboard assembly.
VERY IMPORTANT SX-PX220 SX-PX222 SX-PX224 SX-PX226 SX-PX228 SX-PX332 SX-PX334 SX-PX552 SX-PX554
All these models need a cheap modification to prevent the extreme likelihood of severe (very expensive) and possibly irrepairable damage to the main board if the pedal lead gets crunched!
Just fitting a new pedal cable will not repair the damage.
Please warn anyone you know who owns one of these models!
FAIRLY IMPORTANT Many amplifier boards need a cheap modification which makes it less likely to blow both amplifiers and possibly both speakers. When this happens it can cost a lot to repair. If the top of your piano or your amplifier board is here I would carry out this work anyway as it would be pretty stupid not to have it done. Parts are becoming more and more difficult to obtain so it makes sense to prevent or delay a failure if possible – especially if it costs very little to do. If you would like to have this work done, please get in touch.
NOTE – the cheap modification mentioned above does not include amplifier boards from models PR602 PR603 PR604 PR702 PR703 PR804 PR902 PR903 PR1000 PX336 PX338 which all need an extensive refurbishment to give them a longer lease of life. The refurbishment has to be done properly if it is to last for any length of time.
ALL MODELS WITH DEAD OR INTERMITTENT NOTES – need the top of the piano here.
There are no spare boards available now so getting your own boards working is the first course of action. If not repairable, I do have some good contact boards and contacts to use as a last resort. I need these for my repair work so they are not for sale.
If outside the UK or too far away to bring the top of your piano here you would have to send me your contact boards and contacts for repair, cleaning and testing. This involves removing the control panel, keyboard assembly and contact boards plus contacts and then reassembling everything afterwards.
I know from past experience that trying to explain how to do all this takes far longer than doing the job myself. Most people are not keen to pay for the amount of time it takes to prepare photos and explanations – and obviously I would rather spend the time doing a repair and getting paid for it than spend time (usually several hours) writing explanations and not getting paid for it!
So … if you are going to send me your contact boards for repair you will either have to work out how to remove them and replace them yourself or, if you need help, I will give you a price for explaining how to do this. Fair enough?
ALL MODELS WITH BLACK PLASTIC BOXES PROTRUDING UNDERNEATH
To avoid damaging these boxes, place packing underneath when transporting top of piano.
ALL MODELS WITH BUZZY, DISTORTED SOUND
Also bring the speaker box if any. I do have some speakers for sale.
More recent models like PR602 PR603 PR604 PR702 PR703 PR804 PR902 PR903 PR1000 PX336 PX338 are unlikely to have speaker problems. The amplifier board is most likely the cause of the distorted sound or other strange noises.
PC8 PC10 PC12 PC15 PC25 PC26 series pianos – need the top of the piano here.
I can test and usually repair the main/amplifier board (just one board in these models)
NOTE – take care not to bash the volume control knob located under the front left corner. When transporting the top of the piano, put packing underneath so the piano does not rest on this volume control knob.
PC100 – need the top of the piano here.
I can test and usually repair this model.
PR series digital ensemble pianos in order of production (I think)
PR40 PR60 PR100 PR200 PR300 – depends what’s wrong but need top of piano here.
I can test and usually repair contact problems on these models.
Probably not able to repair main boards unless something simple.
If buzzy, distorted sound please also bring the speaker box if any.
PR1 Grand piano version of PR300 so same as above.
PR50v PR150 PR250 PR350 – can test some boards but might need top of piano here – please ring with fault details.
Probably not able to repair main boards unless something simple.
If buzzy, distorted sound please bring the speaker box too.
PR250 PR350 should be able to repair contact problems on ones with serial numbers xxxDxxxx but not the earlier membrane contact ones with serial numbers xxxCxxxx.
PR3 – Grand piano version of PR350 (I think) so same as above.
PR170 PR270 PR370 – can test and usually repair main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
If buzzy, distorted sound please bring the speaker box too.
PR5 – Grand piano version of PR370 so same as above.
PR110 – need the top of the piano here.
NOTE – this feels awful to play – must be the only Technics piano like this!
No, I was wrong – the PC100 and PX100 have the same nasty keyboard.
PR303 PR305 PR307 – can test and usually repair main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
If buzzy, distorted sound please also bring the speaker box if any.
PR500 PR600 PR700 PR900 – can test and usually repair main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
If buzzy, distorted sound please also bring the speaker box if any.
PR51 PR52 – can test and usually repair main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
PR602 PR702 PR902 – can test and usually repair main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
PR53 – can test and usually repair main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
PR603 PR703 PR903 – can test and usually repair main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
PR1000 – Grand piano version of PR903 so same as above.
NP10 – don’t know – have never seen one of these.
PR54 – can only test and repair the amplifier board.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
PR604 PR804 – can only test and repair the amplifier board.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
PX series digital pianos in order of production (I think)
PX1 PX4 PX5 PX6 PX7 PX9 – sorry, no – too old.
Have supplied speakers for PX6.
PX20 PX30 PX33v PX44, PX55, PX66 – can test most main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
Probably not able to repair main boards unless something simple.
If buzzy, distorted sound please also bring the speaker box if any.
PX55 PX66 should be able to repair contact problems on ones with serial numbers xxxCxxxx but not the earlier membrane contact ones with serial numbers xxxAxxxx and xxxBxxxx.
PX70 PX71 PX73 PX74 – can test main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
Probably not able to repair main boards unless something simple.
If buzzy, distorted sound please also bring the speaker box if any.
PX101 PX103 PX106 PX107 – can test and usually repair main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
If buzzy, distorted sound please also bring the speaker box if any.
PX100 – need the top of the piano here.
PX111 – can test and usually repair main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
PX201 PX203 PX204 PX205 PX206 PX207 PX208 – can test and usually repair main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
PX220 PX222 PX224 PX226 PX228 – can test and usually repair main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
All these models need a cheap modification to prevent the extreme likelihood of severe (very expensive) and possibly irrepairable damage to the main board if the pedal lead gets crunched!
Just fitting a new pedal cable will not repair the damage.
The amplifier board also need a cheap modification which makes it less likely to blow both amplifiers and possibly both speakers.
Please warn anyone you know who owns one of these models!
PX332 PX334 – can test and usually repair main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
All these models need a cheap modification to prevent the extreme likelihood of severe (very expensive) and possibly irrepairable damage to the main board if the pedal lead gets crunched!
Just fitting a new pedal cable will not repair the damage.
The amplifier board also need a cheap modification which makes it less likely to blow both amplifiers and possibly both speakers.
Please warn anyone you know who owns one of these models!
PX335 PX336 PX338 – can test and usually repair main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
PX552 PX554 – can test and usually repair main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
Both these models need a cheap modification to prevent the extreme likelihood of severe (very expensive) and possibly irrepairable damage to the main board if the pedal lead gets crunched!
Just fitting a new pedal cable will not repair the damage.
The amplifier board also need a cheap modification which makes it less likely to blow both amplifiers and possibly both speakers. This was a problem that occurred quite frequently on the PX554 and less frequently on the PX552. When it happens it can cost a lot to repair. If your piano suddenly makes a very loud humming noise, turn it off quickly, don’t turn it on again and contact me! If you are lucky the amplifier and speakers may still be okay but, if you switch on the piano again, you will probably put the final nail in the coffin and say goodbye to a lot of money!
Please warn anyone you know who owns one of these models!
PX662 PX663 PX664 – can test and usually repair main and amplifier boards.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
The amplifier board also need a cheap modification which makes it less likely to blow both amplifiers and possibly both speakers.
PX665 – can test and repair amplifier board – not tried main board so not sure.
Need the top of the piano here for anything else.
OTHER NOTES
ALL MODELS
All models are now old enough that any memory back-up capacitors should be replaced.
This should be done even if the instrument is still working properly.
It is not an expensive job if it can be done before these capacitors start leaking and it will extend the working life of the instrument.
If you wait until it stops working or until faults start appearing it will cost considerably more and your piano or keyboard may even be irrepairable!
Pedal cables, pedal leads, pedal cords
8-way MINI DIN – this is soldered to the pedal unit so need the pedal unit here to do it.
4-way MINI DIN to Technics connector – in stock – length 2 metres.
This cable has a connector at each end so you can fit it yourself.
Most models – first, and very important, make sure the piano is securely fastened to its stand.
If the old cable runs down the left hand side, tip the piano up on to its right hand side.
Not having to grovel at floor level makes the job much easier!
Top of range models with a separate central pedal unit – the pedal cable usually runs down from the top of the piano inside a channel with a cover over it. As a rule the whole pedal unit including the supports has to be unscrewed from the speaker box. Once removed it should be possible to get at the bottom connector at the rear of the metal box in which the pedals themselves are mounted.
Pedal microswitches for mid and later models
Parts are available. Do not try to remove the printed circuit board – it will break!
It is possible but very tricky to change the microswitch without removing the board. Safer to remove the metal pedal assembly and send it to me.
Pedal switches for early models
Parts not available.
Switches can be swapped over but not as easily as you might expect.
Hint: don’t unsolder or resolder switch wires as this can damage a switch and there are no replacements!
Damper (Sustain) Pedal potentiometers
Parts not available. These have to be cleaned.
Master Volume slide controls
Parts not available. These have to be cleaned.
Sometimes possible to clean with a tiny amount of the dreaded WD40 sprayed in from outside but doesn’t always work.
Encoders – the rotary things e.g. for tempo which go round and round forever.
Have not found any suitable replacement parts so the faulty encoder has to be removed, cleaned and replaced.
IT IS NOT POSSIBLE TO CLEAN BY SPRAYING WD40 IN FROM OUTSIDE!!
Have to remove the circuit board this part is mounted on, then desolder and remove the encoder from the circuit board. Once the encoder is removed it is possible to spray WD40 inside it, rotate the shaft many times in both directions, clean off excess WD40, shake it to remove WD40 from inside it and clean that off, replace the encoder and resolder it, then refit the circuit board and hope the encoder works ok … a long job!
I have found an unsuitable replacement for the later type of encoder used by Technics. It works but the shaft is much too long.
Tact switches – the little microswitches which the buttons operate.
Not possible to clean – have to be replaced – can supply the more recent types of these.
Pedal lever-operated microswitches
Not possible to clean – have to be replaced – can supply the more recent types of these.
At least 50% of my repairs are from overseas so there’s no way any of these people will be shipping me the top of their piano! For those people, we can do a quick check of fault symptoms by email so they can send me the correct board.
It all sounds far too easy – and it is! The biggest problem is time. I speak to or email many people about their repair and then, often several weeks later, a random selection of parcels arrives. Some are from people I spoke to fairly recently and some are from people I spoke to many weeks or even months ago – but they all arrived today and they all want their boards fixed right now … aarrgghh!!!
I do my best – honestly!
Nearly forgot
SX-WSA1 SX-WSA1R – never seen one so no idea if I could repair these.
Can’t get keys for WSA1
E&OE