Technics

If you want to send me a Technics board for repair from outside the UK
please DO leave your email address, slowly and clearly, on my answerphone using the “PHONETIC ALPHABET” (see CONTACT page) so I can be sure of getting it right.

If you are in the UK, please read the info on the CONTACT page first.
I would rather have your telephone number (landline, not mobile) than your email address.

Technics – a great range of organs, digital pianos and keyboards.  One of the leading names but sadly no longer in production.  Contrary to some rumours Technics did not “go bust” or cease trading.  As far as I know they just decided to pull out of making musical instruments – which is a pity because they made some really good products.

I repair a lot of Technics pianos.  I think they are worth repairing because most of them sound really good and have a lovely action so they feel great to play too.  The owners also think these are worth repairing.  I’m often told that they prefer their Technics piano to any of the current models by Roland and Yamaha!

I’m getting more and more Technics pianos to repair which have been worked on by someone else.  Usually I’m told that the previous repairer got the piano working but it went wrong again.  In most cases the previous work is of a very poor standard and this is why the piano went wrong again.  The worst examples of this is are repair attempts on Main boards.  So far I’ve been able to repair all of these bodged jobs but it’s only a matter of time before I get one that’s been damaged beyond repair.  I’m not trying to get extra work – I have enough already – but it would be cheaper for you if I did the repair in the first place.  Otherwise you’re paying for the previous bodge and paying again for me to do the job properly.  I’m very good at repairing and my standard of work really is first class.

Why use me to repair your Technics piano?
Because I was brought up to care about doing things properly.  My Dad (like many other Dads) always said “if a job’s worth doing, it’s worth doing well.”  As a result of this I’ve always been very conscientious and very thorough.  I don’t cut corners.  I use the right parts, I always check things carefully and (not blowing my own trumpet) I do a much better job than any other repairs I’ve seen.

Why do I get Technics repairs from all over the UK and the world?
Usually because most engineers/technicians can’t or won’t do Technics and often because another repairer’s previous repair attempt has failed.

Info about various models and possible faults further down the page

The bad news is that replacement circuit boards are no longer available as far as I’m aware – unless someone is scapping a piano for spares which, in my book, should be a criminal offence!  However, most circuit boards can be repaired unless badly damaged by corrosion – and sometimes this is possible too.

The good news is that most of their PR series digital ensembles (pianos with auto accompaniments), their PX series pianos (without auto accompaniments), their KN range of keyboards and most of their organs can still be repaired.  Most repairs don’t need special Technics parts (although some do) – just a Technics repair specialist … that’s me!

It’s always worth checking to see whether your house contents insurance covers such events as accidental spillages (if this genuinely was the cause of the problem) on a replacement as new basis.  This probably won’t be possible if you bought the instrument second hand.
Info about INSURANCE CLAIMS on Home page.

Please always provide the MODEL NUMBER in any enquiries – you can ignore the “SX” or “SY” prefix which is just Technics’ code denoting that it’s a music product.
It is also really important that I get a good description of the fault, plus any other symptoms you can think of – and details of any previous repair history.

IMPORTANT NOTES REGARDING REPAIRS AND “SERVICING”
Modern electronic pianos, keyboards etc. do NOT need servicing
Is your piano or keyboard playing ok? Then it does NOT need anything doing to it.
If anyone recommended servicing my electronic piano, as opposed to just repairing it,
I wouldn’t let them. I know these products only need attention when they go wrong.
It would be a total waste of money (and a complete rip-off!) to have all your piano’s contacts cleaned or changed if it’s playing normally apart from a couple of notes.
It is standard practice for me to vacuum out the muck and fluff that accumulates inside.
It costs almost nothing to do and lessens the chance of more contact problems but it is not necessary to replace contacts or contact boards unless there is bad corrosion from a spillage.
It is wrong to charge people for something which doesn’t need doing.
As the saying goes “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it!”

Many of my customers have said that their music shop told them their piano or keyboard could not be repaired. Owners of Technics pianos usually get told this when trying to find an engineer or technician who repairs Technics.
Music shops who do not carry out repairs are not really able to advise on repairs.
You would be better advised by someone like myself who is only a repairer because,
unlike a shop, I won’t try to sell you a new one!

If you want to send me a Technics board for repair from outside the UK
please DO leave your email address, slowly and clearly, on my answerphone using the “PHONETIC ALPHABET” (see CONTACT page)
and REPEAT IT so I can be sure of getting it right.

Examples of faults in some of the PX series digital pianos and the PR series “digital ensemble” pianos.

Similar faults may occur in other models – please ring if your model is not listed here

1) SX-PR603, PR703, PR903, PR1000 – Won’t boot up – sometimes won’t turn on properly (just get blue backlit display but no writing appears) no buttons light and keys won’t play – sometimes the buttons do light but the keys won’t play – sometimes turns on normally but only plays for a short time (control buttons may stop working/lock-up/freeze, keyboard may stop playing) – may start working by itself or you may have to switch off and on again to get it working.  Initialising sometimes appears to have cleared the problem but this is just coincidence – the problem will come back!
This is a MAIN BOARD fault. It needs extremely specialised repair work which must only be carried out by someone like myself who is an expert in surface-mount rework techniques and has the proper tools for the job.  If a non-expert attempts work on this board it will almost certainly be damaged, possibly beyond repair.  Unfortunately some repairers (often very good engineers/technicians) make an incredibly bad job of reworking surface mount chips.  This usually results in the problem not being fixed in the first place or sometimes the problem goes away for a while but comes back again.  If a chip is reworked properly it shouldn’t need to be done again.  I can usually repair main boards if they have no serious damage from previous repair attempts.

One of these days I’ll put up photos I’ve taken of other repairers’ awful soldering attempts on these chips.

Just in case …. I now have some spare, good main boards for the SX-PR603, PR703, PR903, PR1000. These are not for sale unless I get a really badly messed up board that I can’t repair. I bought them as a sort of insurance policy so I can be sure of getting your piano working again!

I can test main boards for SX-PR603, PR703, PR903, PR1000 after repairing them.
You can send me your main board for repair.  Please ring first to discuss the symptoms.
NEW PAGE  about removing SX-PR603, PR703, PR903, PR1000 main boards.
Put your mouse over the word “Technics” at the top of the page to find it
The SX-PR1000 sold in the USA is a PR903 in a grand piano type case.
The SX-PR603, PR703, PR903, PR1000 can also suffer from the amplifier and power supply problems in 2) below.

2) SX-PR602, PR702, PR902, PR603, PR703, PR903, PR604, PR804, PR1000, PX336, PX338 amplifier and power supply problems – when playing, sometimes (or all the time) the sound is distorted on left-hand-side or right-hand-side or both sides – either side may sometimes cut out and come back when it feels like it – may sometimes hear nasty, fizzy or squeaky noises even when not playing.  Check using headphones – you should find that it sounds normal on headphones.  Some customers argue that it must be the speakers but they are usually wrong!  Some customers say it must be the transformer and they are always wrong!!

The models listed above are now of an age where the amplifier/power supply boards have developed problems which needs attention as soon as possible – preferably before the piano goes BANG and stops working!  If it’s already gone BANG or makes a loud HUM it can still be fixed but it will cost more than if it is done before this happens,
This is not just a normal repair.  It needs extensive refurb work to be done very thoroughly or it won’t be long before it goes wrong again.
Unfortunately for me, I do the best job on these amplifiers.
I say unfortunately because it’s a very, very tedious job.

You can either send me the amplifier board for repair or bring me the top of the piano.  If you send me the amplifier board for any of these models, I can test it here after it’s done so I know it’s working properly before returning it.
I can test amplifier boards for SX-PR602, PR702, PR902, PR603, PR703, PR903, PR604, PR804, PR1000, SX-PX336, PX338.
NOTE – apparently the SX-PR604, PR804 are noisier than the previous ranges, having a background hiss which is loud enough to be annoying. The noise must come from the main boards on these two models. I’ve tried PR604 and PR804 amplifier boards in my PR703 and they were not noticeably noisy. I don’t know if there is any way of reducing the hiss so just play the piano and forget about it! If you find the hiss annoying when you’re not playing the piano, don’t get yourself in a tizz about it – switch it off. Then it will be all nice and quiet!
I can not test PR604 and PR804 main boards.

3) any model – piano went “pop” (or maybe went “BANG!!!“) or may HUM on left-hand-side or right-hand-side or both sides (usually a loud hum) and may stop playing.  This is also an amplifier fault.  Usually the output transistors and a few other things have blown.  I need the amplifier board to repair.  If the output transistors have blown there is a possibility that this may also have blown the speakers.  Once again, get the model number and ring to discuss.

4) very high-pitched whistle – sometimes not audible to humans but may be the reason why your dog foams at the mouth and runs repeatedly into walls!  Sorry, back to normality for a moment.  The main board produces some high frequencies which, although annoying if you can hear them, may be tricky to pin-point and silence.  Check to see if it’s the main board whistling by turning down the master volume or plugging in headphones (don’t put on the headphones).  If the whistle can still be heard it’s the main board so explain to the dog that you may be packing his bags.  A main board whistle could be coming from a choke (coil) vibrating at high frequency and might be cured with the right kind of glue.  If the whistle disappears with master volume or headphones it might be something you could do yourself (if you’re brave) so please ring for advice on this.

5) SX-PX103, PX105, PX106, PX107, PX111, PX201, PX203, PX204 and others
please ring if your model is not listed here – won’t boot up, dead, no display, LEDS don’t light up (except for the one on the front of the piano – exceptions are ones like PX111 and PR303 which don’t have an LED on the front of the piano)
Could be a main board fault or an amplifier problem – sending both boards is probably a good idea.  The amplifier board is a very tight fit on its nylon mounting posts.  The board is made of paxolin and will crack if it is bent too much!  Main boards are much tougher being made of fibre glass.
Send me the main board or both boards or bring me the top half of the piano.
IMPORTANT – if sending the amplifier board DO NOT REMOVE THE HEAT SINK
See new page about this
Put your mouse over the word “Technics” at the top of the page to find it.

NEW PAGE  about removing  the main boards from these models.
Put your mouse over the word “Technics” at the top of the page to find it.
I can test SX-PX103, PX105, PX106, PX107, PX111, PX201, PX203, PX204 main boards and amplifier boards after repairing them.
NOTE SX-PX205, PX207 main boards and amplifier boards are not removed in the same way as the other models in this paragraph.

6) SX-PX222, PX224, PX226, PX228, PX332, PX334, PX336, PX338, PX552, PX554, PX664, PX665 and some others – please ring if your model is not listed here – won’t boot up, no display, LEDS don’t light up (except for the one on the front of the piano), may have gone “pop” or “bang” or may make a VERY LOUD HUM … if so, do not switch it on again to see if it’s got better by itself!!  Remove the mains lead and hide it so no-one else can switch it on!
The reason I say “do not switch it on again” is that if you are extremely lucky (and it has happened a few times) the amplifier and speakers will still be okay – but if you turn on the piano again you may well blow them!!! This happens in a fraction of a second and automatically transfers yet more money from your bank account into mine!!
Usually the amplifier and speakers will have blown.  It’s not a cheap repair but it is cheaper than buying another piano – and there’s no doubt that these piano really are worth repairing – they sound great and play like a dream!
While I have the top of the piano or the amplifier board, I can modify part of the amplifier’s power supply to considerably reduce the likelihood of it happening again. This will help to protect the amplifier but will not help protect the main board if the pedal lead gets damaged …. see below.
The main board can get several chips blown (expensive!) if the pedal lead gets damaged.  If the pedal cable trails on the floor and the piano is dragged over it, this will almost certainly damage it.  The pedal cable can also be damaged by pushing the piano back hard against the wall – this can also damage the socket for the pedal cable.
Sending both boards is probably a good idea.
The amplifier board is quite tricky to remove and replace so please either ring for advice or better still bring the top of the piano to me.
IMPORTANT – if sending the amplifier board DO NOT REMOVE THE HEAT SINK
See new page about this
Put your mouse over the word “Technics” at the top of the page to find it.

Prevention is far cheaper than repair on these models  If you have one of the above PX series which is still working properly it is definitely worth having the power supply modified if you intend to keep the piano – it’s at least £150 cheaper than having it repaired after the amplifier and speakers have blown.  You can bring the top of the piano here to have this done (possibly same day by arrangement) or you could send me the circuit board but it’s a bit tricky to remove and slightly trickier to put back.  It’s often easier to bring me the top of the piano than to try to remove circuit boards and this avoids the risk of damaging a board when trying to remove it.
I do not have a suitable test rig for all of these pianos, so you might need to bring the top of the piano to me – please ring to check.
NOTE:  Can now test Main and Amplifier boards for SX-PX222, PX224, PX226, PX228, PX332, PX334, PX552, PX554, PX662, PX663 but need both of these boards to test properly
If you have other problems with the keyboard or Control Panel, I would need the top half of the piano here.

IMPORTANT – if sending the amplifier board DO NOT REMOVE THE HEAT SINK
See new page about this
Put your mouse over the word “Technics” at the top of the page to find it.

7) SX-PR170, PR270, PR370 series (also SX-PR5 sold in USA which looks to me like a grand piano version of SX-PR370), possibly SX-PR303, PR305, PR307 and maybe others – won’t turn on properly or completely dead, may make moaning and groaning noises (seriously!) – may light up but doesn’t play.
I can test some of the boards for these models so please ring to see if you can send me a board or not
Obviously the SX-PR5 is too much of a lump to bring here – and I’d never be able to lift it onto the work bench without help or a hernia!
NOTE – I can test main boards and amplifier boards from SX-PR303, PR305, PR307
IMPORTANT – if sending the amplifier board DO NOT REMOVE THE HEAT SINK
See new page about this
Put your mouse over the word “Technics” at the top of the page to find it.

These pianos are of an age where speaker surrounds may have perished – see “speaker faults” below

8) older models e.g. SX-KN800, KN1000, KN2000, KN3000, PR250, PR350, PX55, PX66 and quite a few more – everything looks normal, all buttons and display working normally but total silence …. Note: can get a similar problem with SX-KN5000, KN6000, KN6500, KN7000
First make sure that NOTHING is left plugged into headphones sockets (some pianos have two), especially the headphone jack adaptor (3.5mm stereo mini jack socket to quarter inch stereo jack plug)
Sometimes, instead of total silence, it might be making a nasty hissing noise or might be extremely quiet and possibly fuzzy-sounding.
I haven’t listed every model so please ring me with the model number of your piano or keyboard.
I do not have suitable pianos here to test boards for all of the older pianos so please ring to see if you need to bring the top of the piano to me.

IMPORTANT – if sending the amplifier board DO NOT REMOVE THE HEAT SINK
See new page about this
Put your mouse over the word “Technics” at the top of the page to find it.

WORTH NOTING – main board faults listed above are not related to the other faults listed above so if you have the main board repaired one week and next week you get distortion it just means that the amplifier, pre-amplifier or speakers decided to go wrong very soon after the previous fault.  Generally speaking, a main board fault will not cause an amplifier fault.  However, an amplifier fault might possibly cause a main board fault due to over-voltage but this is far more likely to be caused by a damaged pedal lead
See section below – Damaged pedal lead may blow up your Technics piano

A few tips to help you avoid the expense of unnecessary repairs:
1) Electronic musical instruments DO NOT NEED SERVICING – they only need repairing if they go wrong … “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!”
2) Initialise. Sometimes the instrument behaves very strangely or may not play at all because its operating system has got itself in a knot. It’s always worth trying the “initialise” procedure on most Technics products before calling out a service engineer. Initialising will lose anything you have written or recorded … so now you’ll wish you’d done that saving to disk first!
3) Damaged pedal lead may blow up your Technics piano. Take care not to damage the lead which goes down to the pedals. If the pedal cable trails on the floor and the piano is dragged over it, this will almost certainly damage it. The pedal cable can also be damaged by pushing the piano back against the wall – this can also damage the socket for the pedal cable. Surprisingly (not a nice surprise either) this can cause extremely expensive damage to the main circuit board!
I don’t know all the models which are vulnerable to this but certainly the SX-PX222, PX224, PX226, PX228, PX332, PX334, PX552, PX554 are, and probably quite a few others.
I can add internal protection which should prevent damage to the main board if the pedal lead gets crunched.
If your piano or circuit board was here for repair, I would do this as a matter of course.
If the piano is still ok but gets moved around, it would be wise to have this done sooner rather than later.
It will cost a great deal less now than a main board repair later!!
These main boards can not always be repaired.
Many of these Technics main boards are becoming impossible to repair as more and more components become unobtainable.  These pianos are so good that it would be tragic if any had to be scrapped because of such a silly cause as a damaged pedal lead!

Technics pedal leads
4-way mini DIN pedal cables for all the later SX-PC, SX-PR and SX-PX models
This cable has a connector at each end so you can fit it yourself.
I manufacture these myself as Technics no longer supply them.
8-way mini DIN for many of the earlier models
This cable has a connector at one end only.  The wires at the other end are soldered.
Technics stopped supplying these cables years ago.
I can supply a suitable new cable but the wire colours are different from the original.  Sometimes the cables I get come from different manufacturers so the wire colours can be different.  If you are buying one of these cables to fit yourself, I’m sorry but you will have to work out the wiring for yourself.

SPEAKER FAULTS – usually in older models – can affect any loudspeakers having foam surrounds which perish and disintegrate with age leaving the speaker cone floating unsupported.  The symptom is buzzy or rattly or fuzzy type of distorted sound – usually worse at lower frequencies.  If you continue to use the piano the problem speaker will eventually damage its speech coil.  If you’re lucky the speaker goes open circuit and just stops working.  If you’re not so lucky the speaker will go short circuit and blow the amplifier.  If you have distorted sound, try using headphones and if okay on headphones get the speakers checked.  When foam surrounds perish and disintegrate it’s usually fairly obvious because there are lots of bits of the old foam (often black) lying  below the speaker.  Note – when this happens it’s a fairly safe bet that both speakers will need replacing.  DON’T carry on playing the piano if it sounds distorted because you will eventually blow the amplifiers as well!!

PLEASE NOTE – I do not have a whole range of Technics pianos here on which to test boards.  With the exception of those models listed above for which I’ve said I can test boards, if you only send me a board I am unable to test it unless there happens to be a customer’s piano of the same or similar model here at the time.  If not, it could be months before I can test your board. The best solution by far is for you to bring me the top of the piano (and the speaker box if there is one). This is not only cheaper for you but I can be certain that everything is working properly before you come to collect it.  If you want to do this please ring me for advice on how to dismantle the piano safely.

If bringing the top of the piano without asking for advice

1. disconnect mains lead, pedal lead, speaker lead (only on models with speaker box below top of piano).  Note: speaker lead connector has a latch.  Squeeze the rear of the latch.  This will lift the front of the latch and then the connector can be pulled out
2. tape down music rest if non-removable
3. close and tape down keyboard cover if present – if it swings open it can bend the aluminium rod at the back which is almost impossible to straighten again!
4. prepare vehicle for transit – IMPORTANT – if piano has plastic boxes protruding from underside you should put packing under the piano to prevent the weight of the piano resting on these boxes
5. remove screws fixing piano to stand
6. two people required to lift piano off stand and into vehicle
7. if you have loud hum or distortion problems and the piano has a separate speaker box please bring that as well for testing
8. if any pedal problems bring the pedal unit – this is usually easy to unscrew which saves having to bring the whole stand with you.
9. when reassembling the piano (or anything with several threaded screws) always start each screw carefully and make sure it has found its thread.  Using your fingers rather than a screwdriver is a good way to do this.  Don’t tighten any screws until all the screws have been started in their threads.  Then tighten the screws.
10. Take great care when re-connecting the pedal lead.  Make absolutely sure it is the right way round.  Don’t force it or the pins will bend.  The 8-pin mini DIN pedal cables for the older models are not available any more.  Replacements are very expensive as they have to be made by hand.  Also these do not plug into the pedal unit, they are soldered and it’s not a simple job either!  I can still supply the 4-pin mini DIN pedal cables for the more recent models.  These do plug into the pedal unit so, with the piano on its side, are relatively easy to fit.

If opening piano to remove circuit boards
1) ring me with the model number to check that your piano does open in the usual way – some don’t!
2) unplug mains so you can’t electrocute yourself
3) remove top of piano (most Technics open like this).  As a general rule, don’t remove the rear of the piano!  Exceptions – PR303, PX111 open in a very unusual way
4) slide keyboard cover (if any) forward to cover the keys.  Now you can see inside the piano.

Tips for removing circuit boards – see new sub-menu for SX-PR603, 703, 903, 1000 main boards
+ sub-menu for SX-PX103 PX106 PX107 PX111 PX201 PX203 PX204 main boards and amplifier boards
1) once the piano is open, first take photos or make sketches so you can see how to put it back together!!
2) unplug all connections to the board taking care not to break any wiring
3) unscrew any ground (earth) wires or straps
4) if any screws go through the board remove these
5) NOTE – most Technics boards are mounted on nylon posts which are a very tight fit
Each nylon post has flared-out bits which must be squeezed together using long nose pliers whilst you try to ease the board part-way up the post.
WARNING – DO NOT TRY TO GET THE BOARD COMPLETELY OFF EACH POST
This particularly applies to any boards which are a sort of cardboard colour (light-brownish) e.g. amplifier boards.  These are made of paxolin which is quite brittle and will crack if bent too much.  Green coloured boards e.g. main boards are usually made of fibreglass which is much tougher.  Main boards have circuit tracks on the top side of the board too, so take care that your long nose pliers don’t skid off a post and damage any tracks!
You have to work your way round the posts, easing the board a little way up each one in turn.  Sometimes, very annoyingly, whilst you’re struggling with one post, the board may pop back onto a post you started previously.  At this point non-smokers may seriously consider starting … often after several drinks!

Must take care not to pull up the board too hard – if it comes up suddenly it may crack!

After a lot of fiddling and cursing the board will eventually come free.

I usually ream out the holes a bit to make it easier if the board ever has to come out again.

NOTE – if a board has been worked on before by someone who is impatient or not particularly competent, you may find that some of the mountings posts have been cut off or even been pulled out of their holes in the main shelf!
This is a good reason for not using that someone in future.
The mounting posts are there to hold the board in place and should not be cut off.
Sometimes it can be very tricky and frustrating but eventually it should always be possible to get a board off its mounting posts.
If the flared-out bits of a post have been badly deformed by previous repair attempts, it might be necessary to cut off the most troublesome one of the flared-out bits – but only one!
Sometimes I get sent a board with one or more mounting posts still attached to it.
This only happens when people get impatient and pull the board upwards much too hard, without having squeezed the flared-out bits together properly.
Hopefully, a fibre-glass main board is strong enough to withstand such rough treatment but doing this to an amplifier board is extremely likely to crack or snap it.

If your piano has any mounting posts which need replacing because they’ve been cut off or are missing, I can supply these.
The mounting posts are glued into holes in the main shelf.
Each post was positioned so that its flared-out bits faced in the direction Technics decided would be best if the board had to be removed.
You will have to make your own decision about this if replacing a missing or cut off post.
The remains (if any) of the old post must first be removed from the hole in the main shelf.
The last time I had to glue a replacement mounting post in its hole I used Evostik wood adhesive which seemed to work ok.

Handling main boards
after removing, handle it by the edges to reduce the chance of static damage.

Handling amplifier boards
no anti-static precautions necessary – just handle carefully.

IMPORTANT – if sending an amplifier board DO NOT REMOVE THE HEAT SINK
See new page about this
Put your mouse over the word “Technics” at the top of the page to find it.

Packing
To avoid damage to main boards by static electricity, hold the board only by the edges.
DO NOT WRAP THE BOARD IN ORDINARY, CLEAR BUBBLE-WRAP!
You must use something anti-static like the silvery-grey bags used for computer hard drives.
There is anti-static bubble-wrap (usually pink) but don’t use unless you know it is anti-static.
Failing that, put the board in a paper envelope or wrap in a sheet of paper.
DON’T WRAP THE BOARD IN ANYTHING ELSE FIRST!
Then use plenty of normal, clear bubble-wrap or loose-fill chips to protect it in transit.
Pack the board well – use a box large enough that the board isn’t a tight fit.
USE A DEEP BOX WITH PLENTY OF PACKING ABOVE AND BELOW THE BOARD.
A board can get crushed easily in a shallow box.
DO NOT JUST USE A JIFFY BAG
A Jiffy Bag (or even several Jiffy Bags) is NOT ENOUGH PROTECTION!

Put in a note giving the piano model and all your contact details!

Shipping method – my address is not on here so you will have to contact me
Within the UK – Royal Mail Special Delivery is good and includes £500 insurance in the basic price, so you may as well say your package is worth £500.  You can increase the insurance up to a maximum of £2500 for a modest amount extra.
You can track your parcel on-line to check when it arrived – saves having to ring me.
Within the EU – normal post or courier – it’s your choice.  Currently there is no Import or Export duty on shipments within the EU so you can put any value you like on the goods and insure them or not as you see fit.
Outside the EU – normal post or courier – it’s your choice.  Warning! Do NOT put a high value on the goods.  This is very important – see Overseas Repairs page.

DIY nutcases
Most people who’ve “had a go” have tried similar things, not fixed their board and usually caused more work than if they’d left it alone.  A few tips might save you (and me) some time
1 – it is a waste of time to resolder connector terminals – I’ve never had a problem with any Technics board connectors
2 – don’t remove coils / chokes / inductors.  Like transformers, these components almost never give a problem.  If they read short circuit or very low resistance this is correct.  I’ve recently had three boards with broken inductors – two from customers and one from a repairer who tried removing this part when there was absolutely no need to do so!
3 – don’t remove capacitors unless you are certain they are short circuit.  Most repairers expect to find a faulty capacitor somewhere but it is very unusual in these products.
4 – don’t remove diodes unless you are certain they are short circuit.  Different types of diode give different readings which might make you suspect a diode that is perfectly ok.  Don’t replace a diode except with the right part – there are many wrong ones to choose from!
5 – don’t replace any transistors except with the correct type.
6 – don’t cut legs of components
7 – don’t ever cut any circuit tracks e.g. if trying to isolate a short circuit!  Digital boards have so many tracks and vias to the same places that the board would be ruined if this method was attempted.

If you’re doing the job yourself please don’t ask me for help and advice – I really don’t have time for this.  So please … either you do the job or I do.  If you mess it up, I don’t mind taking on the repair afterwards but it’s worth pointing out that this will cost more if you’ve caused any damage!

Electronics experts
You may be an expert in your field but you are probably not an expert at Technics repairs.
I don’t work on anything except electronic musical instruments and I’ve done a lot of Technics repairs, so I’m really good at it.  In my experience, most experts in other electronics areas do not manage to fix these products and actually cause problems which just make the repair more expensive.  Oh well … c’est la vie!

Reminder
Power MOSFETs FS30KMJ-3 and FX30KMJ-3
Have some original parts but need to keep these for my own repairs.
I am willing to buy more but must have samples to try first.
There are counterfeit versions of these for sale in the Far East which don’t work or only work for a short while!
Preamp transistors – have correct parts for my own repairs but am not keen to sell these (except to a repairer in an emergency) as some are very difficult to obtain now.

ICP (IC Protector) fuses
N75  2.7 amps.  £3.00 each inc. postage to UK mainland.  Minimum order 4 pieces = £12
Technics’ price for 4 pieces (May 2011) is £14.04 plus postage from me to you.
N10  0.4 amps.  £3.50 each inc. postage to UK mainland.  Minimum order 2 pieces = £7.
Technics’ price for 2 pieces (May 2011) is £11.02 plus postage from me to you.

Keys, hammers etc. for Technics pianos, ensembles and keyboards
All sorts.  Some new, some used.  Used keys are usually a better colour match than new keys.  This is just as well because Technics do not have keys or hammers for sale now.

Technics pedal leads or cables – I can supply these
See info further up this page

Technics mains leads a.k.a. power cables or power cords
Most Technics music products use what is known as a “figure 8” or “figure of eight” mains cable – so-called because when viewed from the end it looks like a number 8.
These have a habit of going missing – especially if you move house!  I’m forever getting calls about these!
This is not a special Technics part.  It is very common and very widely used.
I can supply these if you can’t find a supplier.
Some early Technics products use a different mains cable which is rectangular.  It has two rectangular holes to match the pins in the product.  It is a similar size to an I.E.C. connector (commonly known as a kettle lead) but does not have the hump because there is no earth (ground) pin.
These mains power leads are now obsolete but I have a few left for sale.

Mains connector or low-voltage d.c. power supply?
I quite often get calls from people wanting to buy a d.c. power supply for their Technics keyboard.  Some Technics keyboards run directly off the mains, in which case you probably just need to get a figure 8 lead.
If you look on the back of your keyboard, you should be able to see where the power supply plugs in.  If it’s shaped like a number 8 and has AC IN printed by it (often with a little squiggle as well – the squiggle represents a.c. voltage) then it definitely runs off the mains and you don’t need a d.c. power supply at all.

All sales are non-refundable. Unused parts are not returnable for credit or refund.

FDD, disc drives, disk drives
Quite a few of the Technics floppy disc/disk drives, floppy drives, floppies, disc/disk drive units, FDDs, FDD units can be repaired, refurbed, supplied as exchange unit, supplied new.
EME-213 floppy disk drive unit as used in SX-EN3, EN4, KN1000, PR250, PR350, and lots of other Technics models.  I can test these after repair so I know they’re working properly.
In some cases a modern drive can be modified to work instead of the original, obsolete floppy drive unit although this won’t improve storage from 720k to 1.44M.  In this situation a 1.44M diskette may give problems unless the HD media identifier hole is covered up.

Brand new FDD units in stock for the following Technics models
SX-EA3, EA5
SX-KC600, KC611
SX-KN901, KN920, KN930, KN1400, KN1500, KN1600, KN2400, KN3000, KN3500
KN6000, KN6500, KN7000
SX-PR51, PR52, PR53, PR54, PR500, PR600, PR700, PR900, PR950,
SX-PR602, PR702, PR902, PR603, PR703, PR903, PR604, PR804, PR1000
SX-PX336, PX338, PX665
SX-WSA1, WSA1R

I do not have FDD units for these but may be able to repair yours
SX-F100, FA1, G100, GA1, GA2, GA3
SX-KN1200, KN5000
SX-PR170, PR270, PR370, PR303, PR305, PR307
SM-AC1200

DISCLAIMERS
Goods here for repair are at your own risk entirely as they are not insured for any eventuality.
Goods here for repair will be sold or disposed of if there has been no word from the owner for 3 months.

E&OE